Don’t skip the Isle of Mull
- Jordan Sinclair
- 20 hours ago
- 4 min read
Everything you need to know for your visit to the Isle of Mull - 3 day itinerary, where to stay, what to eat and more. We fell in love with Mull on our first visit: less tourists than Skye, preserved rugged landscape and real slow living island vibe. Why is nobody talking about Mull?
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How to get there
Unlike Skye, there isn’t a road bridge, so you have to get a boat to Mull, either as a foot passenger or with a car. There are 3 ferry routes, operated by CalMac, with the most popular being the Oban to Craignure route. Be warned - these sell out, so don’t leave it too late to book.
We actually had to use the Lochaline to Fishnish route because the main route had sold out, and that was weeks in advance.
When to visit
The summer ferry timetable operates from late March to mid-October, and the coincides with the tourist season. While we’re often a fan of travelling in shoulder or off seasons to avoid the crowds, Mull is definitely the exception to the rule. The winter boat schedule has significantly fewer ferries in comparison (even though tickets are booked in advance, we witnessed a huge argument between a local and the ferry operators because there wasn’t enough room on the boats). Out of season, restaurants and even hotels close because they only staff them during the tourist season. Our trip to Mull was in October, and we were lucky to be on the last boat trip to Staffa of the year. We also missed out on some food places because they had already shut for the season.
In summary, go when the summer boat schedule is running!
Where to stay
We had planned to camp for 2 nights in the south of Mull and then spend a night in Tobermory, but a huge storm put us off and we managed to book an extra night last minute at a guesthouse, thankfully!
Even so, the campsite we chose, Port nan Gael was beautiful. We had a loch-side pitch with stunning views, and the campsite facilities were top notch. They had a small but extremely well stocked shop on site, as well as a fab pub, which we were grateful to shelter in for dinner when the storm was blowing.
In Tobermory, we stayed at Harbour Guest House which was simple but warm and clean (we had a harbour view), and included breakfast at the Tobermory Hotel, which was excellent.
Where to eat
Cafe Fish - Tobermory
We knew that Mull is fantastic for seafood, so we opted for the infamous seafood platter at Cafe Fish - it’s pricey but 100% worth it! Everything was delicious. Booking in advance is recommended.
The Foodie Shack - Tobermory
Top rated takeaway pizza. Unfortunately we didn’t get to try these as they had closed for the season, but we heard great things.
Tobermory bakery
Great coffee, freshly baked bread and cakes.
The Clansman, Pennyghael
This pub was right on site at our campsite - very handy. The food was also great.
The Coffee Pot Salen
Great bakery, cakes, and good coffee. The perfect stop en route to the Ulva ferry pontoon for the ferry to Staffa.
3 day itinerary
Day 1 - Tobermory
You can’t go to Mull without seeing the picturesque coloured houses of Tobermory harbour - the setting of popular children’s TV show, Balamory. Whether, you’ve seen that or not, the harbour is still beautiful.
Take a distillery tour at Tobermory Distillery. We’ve done a few whisky tours and this is by far our favourite - it’s a small distillery but that made the experience more personal. Don’t worry if you’re driving - they’ll give you a little “designated driver’s” pack of whisks to take home.
Walk to Rhuba nan Gall lighthouse - this is an easy there-and-back trail with a secluded lighthouse at the end - it takes around 1 hour in total. The walk is mainly covered by trees, so offers some cover on a rainy day.
Day 2 - Staffa and Ulva
We were so lucky to book the last boat trip of the season to Staffa. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to disembark at Staffa because they had started maintanence on the island, but normally you can - another reason to go a bit earlier in the actual tourist season. This boat trip was great nonetheless (made better by the dolphins that joined us alongside the boat!). The hexagonal columns, similar to the Giant's Causeway in Ireland are other-worldly, and it's hard to believ they're not man-made. We booked this trip with Turus Mara, a local tour company. Tours do also run that incorporate Staffa and Iona in the same trip.
You can also get a little boat to Ulva from the same spot (either combined in the same trip, or just hop on the Ulva ferry yourself for £8).
Day 3 - Iona or Ben More
We wanted to visit Iona, but the boats were no longer running due to it being late in the season. There are very limited vehicles on Iona, and visitors are not allowed to bring vehicles. It’s easy to explore the island by foot.
Alternatively, if you fancy bagging a munro, Ben More is the only munro on Mull, and is also the only island munro outside of Skye. Again, we wanted to hike it, but the weather had other plans for us.
If you don’t have your own transport and would rather take a guided tour, there are several multi-day options - see our socials or message us for a discount code too with Get Your Guide.
If you're also heading to Skye, check our our FREE Isle of Skye Guide here.
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